Restaurant review: Zwickl, Munich, Germany (*****)

One of the many benefits of travel is trying (and hopefully enjoying) new kinds of cuisine that your palette may not have encountered before. Zwickl's signature meatballs, found near the busy Viktualienmarkets (fresh food markets running daily just south of the city square), were one such culinary experience I was glad to enjoy while in Munich.

Meatballs aren't a common occurrence at home for me in Australia, with only the now bustling Meatball and Wine Bar flying the meatball flag for its hungry guests in Melbourne. Having tried and tested its tasty but slightly expensive produce, I was eager to see if the German touch resulted in a superior taste.

Only opened in July of this year, Zwickl is still not widely known. It was quite bereft of visitors while we were there, so we were fast to get seated and served. I opted for the Bavarian white sausage (Weiswurst) meatballs with curry honey mustard and hearty vegetable soup, while my friend chose the meatball of baked chicken with potato cucumber salad.


Bavarian white sausage meatballs with curry honey mustard and vegetable soup (left)


Meatball of baked chicken and potato cucumber salad


Once more with yumminess: close-up of those bavarian white sausage meatballs!


That delicious (but slightly strong) honey curry mustard

My meatballs were crunchy, succulent and mouth-watering to the taste. Who knew that three small balls of protein could pack so much flavour? The honey curry mustard added an extra zing to the dish, but large amounts made the mouth quite dry. Luckily, a small bowl of hearty vegetable soup was provided, which nicely counterbalanced the bitterness of the mustard.

My friend's baked chicken meatballs weren't quite as good as my white sausage ones, but were nicely formed and delicious. The supporting potato cucumber salad was aces though.

Andy's traveler rating - Zwickl

Address: Zwickl – Gastlichkeit am Viktualienmarkt, Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 2, Munich

Price 5/5:  Very good for the budget, our meals were no more than 8-12 euros.

Service 5/5: Fast and responsive waitress quickly took our order, while the food arrived very speedily.

Decor 5/5: Bright windows and indoor and outdoor seating options provide an ideal location for people-watching while you dine.  

Food 4.5/5: Tasty and wholesome, Zwickl's food is fresh and different from the other offerings in the city.

Rating: 4.75/5 - Zwickl is a must do if you are in the city and needing a tasty feed.

Note: The rating for Zwickl has been rounded up for simplicity's sake.

Restaurant review: Trastevere La Scala, Trastevere, Italy (****1/2)

As I’ve said many times before, when in doubt about where to eat, go where the locals go. A quick bout of research online confirmed the Trastevere region in Rome as the place to go for authentic, tasty and cheap Italian food. A particular restaurant, Ristorante La Scala, was singled out as a favourite of many so dinner had been decided!

A twenty to thirty minute walk from the nearest metro station, Trastevere lies past a bridge atop a beautiful river that is positively magical by night. Watching the billows of water pass under the bridge was the stuff postcards are made of.

Reaching our destination with some help from Google Maps, we settled into the attractive seating of the restaurant, with a great view of the adjacent piazza square with traffic, cyclists and people in constant motion.

By this point, we’d become sick of eating pizza and pasta all the time, so we both elected to deviate from the norm.

I ordered a orange, fennel and shrimp risotto and my mouth began to water from the very first bite. The rice was moist and toasty, delicate with the grains nicely separated and full and flavour. The shrimp added a nice touch to the dish, with the meat inside the head succulent and juicy. After tossing up between this dish and a pasta dish, any regrets I had simply melted away.


Shrimp, fennel and orange risotto

My friend chose a traditional lasagne served in a terracotta tin, some fresh salad and Coke. I was intrigued to know that lasagna comes in two main varieties, ‘soft’ and ‘hard’, with the terracotta-set lasagna being a guarantee of a soft variety. I tried it and indeed, it was the soft variety my friend had tried and failed to find yesterday at another restaurant in the city. While I don’t think it quite matched my amazing risotto, the lasagna was indeed delicious. The portion was a little on the small side so I’m glad he ordered the salad as an accompaniment.


Lasagna served in terracotta tin

The food was so good I was sufficiently tempted to opt for the dessert. After observing what everyone else was ordering, I ventured out of my comfort zone and ordered something I’d never heard of before – mille fleuile with chantilly cream and wild berries. My friend ordered berries with chantilly cream and another type of cream. It turns out the mille fleuille is a type of wafer, which proved to be quite nice when coupled with the cream and wild berries. It wasn’t as awe-inducing as the risotto but it was a nice finish to the night. My friend’s tried and tested berries and cream combination was another winner, leaving us very satisfied and very full!


Mille-feuille with berries and cream


Berries with Chantilly cream

Andy’s traveler rating – Ristorante La Scala

Address: Piazza Della Scala, 58, 00153 Rome, Italy (Trastevere)
Directions: We walked from the nearest metro stop in Rome, which is quite a walk away. Here is the location on Google Maps.

Price 5/5: Very affordable, mains can be bought for 8 – 15 euros.
Service 4/5: Meals took a little long to come out, but the ambience and people-watching made up for this.
Decor 4.5/5: Nice location on a quiet piazza highlighted the moody lighting and cosy atmosphere of the heated venue.
Food 4.5/5:  Food was tasty, flavourful and authentic to the palette. A definite treat.
Rating: 4.25/5 – If you’re looking for impressive Italian food that doesn’t break the bank, you could do worse than try this little Trastevere gem. It was so good we wanted to go back but we unfortunately ran out of time!

Traveler tips and truths: Paris

Continuing on from my prior traveler tips and truths post on Helsinki, this is a mixture of insights and advice that came to me after staying for 6 days in Paris. There are quite a few things here (I'm a bit of a pedantic for detail), of which some I hope are useful. Enjoy!


Traveler truths:

• Paris is for people watching: As discussed in the list of ‘must-dos’, Paris may very well give you a great new hobby.

An interesting tourist 'attraction' at the Ile-St-Louis

• People are very stylish: Paris is well-known for its cutting edge fashion so the bar is set high on the street. The standard of dress is higher and more adventurous compared to the dominant laidback Australian attire, with a preference towards more formal or elegant types of clothing. This isn’t just limited to the young people – I saw some seriously cool-looking grandpas and dads walking around which made me feel inadequate and scruffy by comparison! I dress mainly for comfort while traveling so I don’t tend to bring any great threads (not that I have many at all), which did make me feel slightly out of place amongst such well-groomed and well-dressed folk.


• Parisians generally don’t wear shorts, even in warm weather: I was a little shocked to see, despite it being 20-25C for the majority of my stay in Paris, that people generally didn’t wear anything other than jeans, chinos or dress/suit pants. Upon asking a Parisian about it, I was told that shorts are generally regarded as an impolite form of dress that is not suitable for work or a meeting, and is generally only worn on vacation or by tourists. I was even told that it is almost taboo to show your legs, which I definitely found strange. It did make me self-conscious enough to wear jeans on a few occasions where I would have opted normally for shorts, but I quickly switched back after sweating it out unnecessarily. Fashion over comfort for the Parisians it seems!


• Parisians can be as rude as you’ve heard: On many occasions, I was surprised by how rude people, even those paid to provide customer service, were to me. The metro and tourist attractions proved to be a hotspot for the short-fused, annoyed and exasperated worker, which encourage me to limit my interaction with them to a bare minimum as a defence mechanism. There were many kind people in the museums and other places I visited though so it's a bit of a mixed bag, but be prepared for some snark with your service.


• Baguettes are the coffees of Paris: Seriously, people eat baguettes for breakfast, lunch and as a snack too. They are obsessed with bread, putting things in bread, eating things with bread – you get the picture. Bakeries are on every corner, fueling this never-ending lifestyle.


• The French are a romantic people – I have never ever seen so much public affection before. People of both genders kissing each other on the cheek in greeting, couples canoodling and kissing in parks and on the street – Parisians are openly emotional and outspoken with their feelings. It can be off putting at first, but you learn to just embrace it and look away in time.


• Parisians like their wide open spaces – It is a favourite past time of the French to lay in parks for hours over a picnic lunch. More food, more people-watching. You get the picture.
  
  
  Parisians enjoying the Jardin des Plantes (Botanical Gardens)


• Paris is undeniably rich with culture and history – Another no brainer. The sheer volume of churches, monuments, museums and sculptures on display is a testament to the rich history of Paris. You even feel it walking down the street – the cobblestones and the street signs lend the city an old-fashioned, nostalgic and very romantic feeling.
  
  
  Arc de Triumph at the top of the Champs De'Lysees


• Aside from people-watching, smoking is another favoured hobby: This is quite a sad inclusion on the list but it is so evident it is impossible to disregard it. Smoke is everywhere in Paris because so many people smoke. It is so easy to passive smoke in Paris every time you walk down the street, pass a bistro or walk through a park with what felt like 1 in 3 people – of all ages – smoking. It seems to be a cool thing to do in Parisian society, and what’s sadder, is that I even saw cyclists and people who were ostensibly healthy, lighting up with gusto. Smoking always makes me feel sick, and after visiting Paris, that feeling hasn’t changed.


• Paris is expensive – You can’t be surprised by this. For me, coming from Australia, mostly everything is more expensive in Paris. Only a few things, like food from vending machines and baguettes (probably due to oversupply) are roughly in proportion with their Australian counterparts. There are cheaper places you can find to eat, but you get what you pay for. I did resort to doing some grocery shopping on my first day to soften the blow, which turned out to be a great way to save money as I managed to avoid paying for food except for 1 day of deliberate French sampling.

Traveler tips

• Buy metro pass in advance – The metro is so good in Paris it’s ridiculous not to use it. With the Paris Visite metro pass, you can get 1,3 or 5 day unlimited travel on the Paris metro, bus and RER in selected zones (chosen at purchase) so you can have peace of mind. This is literally the first thing you should get in Paris if you are going to be going around the city a lot and it is great value if you take into account the price of individual tickets. There is the weekly pass (valid from Monday to Sunday, sold on the Thursday for the following week) and the Paris Navigo pass (needs a photo taken and is generally for Paris residents) available but they both have their drawbacks and aren’t always suitable for tourists.


• Try to use service stations instead of ticket machines if you’re unsure – The ticket machines are actually very good and do have English options but if you are uncertain of anything or want to avoid being harassed by the occasional scam artist or shady character, ask for your tickets directly at the train station. Just be prepared for some staff to either not know English, be rude to you, or both.


• Avoid beggars, gypsies, scammers, and con artists: Like any big city, Paris has its share of less-than-desirable characters. There are beggars (often Romanian) in the street next to ATMs, in train stations, performance artists on the trains playing for money (and some are actually not bad and deserve the coin they get), gypsies around the Eiffel Tower asking you if you speak English who try to get you to do a survey; people selling rip-off goods at big tourist locations; and others trying to sell souvenirs and water to tourists.


• Take care of your belongings to protect against pickpockets – The metro, with its mass of people and limited space to move, is an ideal place for you to be robbed of your valuables at an unsuspecting moment. Take care of your belongings and make sure you don’t leave yourself vulnerable to being pick pocketed. I used a money bag around my waist under my clothes to be extra careful of my things, keeping my passport, wallet and room key inside. What do you know? I didn’t lose a thing. To put this into context, on the day I arrived, a friend’s friend had their passport stolen along with their money bag at a major train station. The passport was thrown into the trash, and the money bag emptied of all cash. I was also hassled at the train station by some shady characters right after I’d touched down in Paris.


• Try to take the metro in off-peak times: 9-10am and 5-7pm are typically the busiest hours for the metro so if you can, try to avoid taking it at these times to save yourself unwanted touching, sweat and jostling. It gets quite warm in the metro with everyone sucking up the oxygen so try to stay cool and calm and you should be fine.


• Get lost sometimes – Sometimes getting lost is the only way you can learn how to get around. There is a perverse satisfaction from getting lost and then having that ‘Eureka!’ moment when everything all clicks into place. The metro is well connected so you can always take the metro from wherever you do end up if you find yourself really lost.


• Take your time with the metro – if you miss your train, there is another one usually within 2-5 minutes so unless you’re in an absolute hurry, there’s no need to dash unless you like running! I admit I did run around a little but only because I was trying to fit everything in and wasted time getting lost more than a few times.


• Learn some basic French – French people, while sophisticated, do not always speak the best English and some, even at service outlets, speak no English at all! So do yourself a favour and bust out your phrasebooks to develop some basic competency. You will find your experience everywhere – in restaurants, in the metro, in shops – easier and all the more pleasant for it.


• 18e/month unlimited movie subscription – Parisians love their cinema, and really respect the work of the director. After all, they did first conceive of the auteur, and play host to the world’s most prestigious film festival in Cannes every year. Small rather than large multiplexes are dotted around the city, playing independent, foreign language and auteur cinema to the masses. I nearly fell in love with Paris right then and there. It is a great place to catch up on the latest gem by your favourite unknown director. I found out too late that there is an 18 euro per month subscription that gives you the privilege of unlimited movies! Considering a single movie costs around 7 or 8 euros, this is great value.


• Check out some free music concerts – Paris is a great place to get in touch with your musical self and with the many churches, cultural venues and parks on offer, there is almost a chance to hear some great music everywhere you go. The metro is also occasionally accompanied by budding artists trying to eke out a living impressing the daily commuters. Check out this website for a listing.


• Ask for help if you need it, even if you feel uncomfortable (Or Learn How to Read Your Train Tickets) – Being in Paris made me uncomfortable asking for help as I didn’t know much French. Having never taken a high speed train before, I was a little unsure if I was in the right seat however upon finding my seat number on the wall, I was sure I had done the right thing. My complacency ended up costing me as I mistakenly got into the wrong part of the train (correct seat number, but wrong coach number) to Munich, finding myself temporarily stranded in Strasbourg and costing myself two hours. Luckily I was still able to make it to my destination with a simple transfer at no additional fare, but I had to find a Wi-Fi source to alert a friend who would have been waiting at the station for an extra two hours on top of getting the new train. All stress one does not need while traveling. I later found out the coach numbers are indicated on the outside of the train, but it just goes to show you, that it never pays to ask for help if you’re unsure.


• Choose the ‘formule’ fixed menus for breakfast or lunch to save – In Paris, you can often find a ‘formule’ menu on offer which is a fixed price menu (either entrée + main + dessert, entrée + main or main + dessert) of set items that is often cheaper than ordering a la carte. I ordered one which would normally have costed 20 euros but was only charged 16 euros for it. So do your wallet a favour and go for the set menu, that is, if you don’t mind sacrificing some choice in the process.

Lunch formule (set meal of the day): Beef gazpachio with pomme frites (french fries), salad and dressing

Andy’s traveler rating - Paris

People: 3.5/5
Liveability: 4/5
Attractions & Culture: 5/5
Nature: 4.5/5
Cost of living: 3/5
Weather: 5/5
Public transport: 5/5

Overall: 30/35

Stockholm: Skansen, Djurgården, and Sodermalm

After exploring the Stockholm Gamla Stan Old Town yesterday, I ventured out of the city centre to the Djurgården island for a relaxing day out at the Skansen Open Air Museum.

The first open air museum in the world, Skansen is a tribute to the history of Sweden. A composite attraction filled with old-fashioned buildings, a zoo of some sorts (featuring lynxes, seals, elk, reindeer, wolverines, wolves and general farm animals) and numerous interactive sites to relive the old way of life – a pottery store, a glassmaking workshop and store, a bakery with delicious pastries, a Skansen shop with traditional Manchester, food products and more.

As an added bonus, Skansen also offers some nice views of the Stockholm city centre.


Skansen Open Air Museum - traditional Swedish buildings


Skansen Open Air Museum - traditional Swedish buildings


Lynxes in action

Attraction details

Name: Skansen Open Air Museum

Directions: Skansen is a short walk (20-30 minutes) from the city centre in the south west of Sweden. There are also numerous buses going to this popular tourist attraction.

Rating: 4.5/5 stars. Highly recommended for history buffs or those wanting a fun day out.

Traveller’s tip: Combine your visit to Skansen with a trip to the adjacent Djugardden garden and park areas and the famous Vasa Museum to get the most of your visit. Also try to bring your own food to avoid paying the overpriced fares for food and drink.

With Skansen done and dusted, it was time to find somewhere to eat. Encouraged by positive reviews of the chic Sodermalm area and its popularity amongst the young trendy folk, we decided on Östgötakällaren, a German restaurant highly rated on TripAdvisor in the vicinity.

With its attractive German décor and moody lighting, the place was very cosy. Many patrons could be heard enjoying the restaurants surroundings or indulging themselves in the adjoining bar.

I settled on the fish and shellfish casserole with a touch of saffron, which was served with an aioli sauce and garlic bread, while my friend chose beef with a red wine sauce and potato mash, washed down with a German wheat beer.

My expectations weren’t that high, given it was rated in the 100s of best restaurants in Stockholm, but I was in for a shock. Upon taking a bite of the casserole, the heady flavours of the soup were so intoxicating so as to cause me to exclaim in surprise. It was a real ‘Ratatouille’ moment for me. Tasting further, the fish and shellfish were so delicate and flavourful I was literally awestruck for a few seconds. I couldn’t believe what I was eating – the food was simply on another level. This also proved true from sampling my friend’s beef – with the meat unbelievably tender and succulent. Combined with the crusty garlic bread and aioli, it was a winning dish.


Fish and shellfish casserole with saffron, aioli and garlic brea

[caption id="attachment_59" align="alignnone" width="660"]
Fish and shellfish casserole with saffron, aioli and garlic bread

Service was brisk and attentive, although I detected a slight annoyance from the waitress when I didn’t choose to order a starter or a drink.

Name: ÖstgötakällarenAddress: Östgötagatan 41, 116 25 Stockholm, Sweden
Price: Mid-range 3/5
Service: Very good 4/5
Decor: 4/5
Food: Excellent 4/5
Rating: Very good 4/5