Showing posts with label helsinki. Show all posts
Showing posts with label helsinki. Show all posts

6 January 2015

Traveler tips and truths: Paris

Continuing on from my prior traveler tips and truths post on Helsinki, this is a mixture of insights and advice that came to me after staying for 6 days in Paris. There are quite a few things here (I'm a bit of a pedantic for detail), of which some I hope are useful. Enjoy!


Traveler truths:
  • Paris is for people watching: As discussed in the list of ‘must-dos’, Paris may very well give you a great new hobby.
DPP_0375
An interesting tourist 'attraction' at the Ile-St-Louis
  • People are very stylish: Paris is well-known for its cutting edge fashion so the bar is set high on the street. The standard of dress is higher and more adventurous compared to the dominant laidback Australian attire, with a preference towards more formal or elegant types of clothing. This isn’t just limited to the young people – I saw some seriously cool-looking grandpas and dads walking around which made me feel inadequate and scruffy by comparison! I dress mainly for comfort while traveling so I don’t tend to bring any great threads (not that I have many at all), which did make me feel slightly out of place amongst such well-groomed and well-dressed folk.

  • Parisians generally don’t wear shorts, even in warm weather: I was a little shocked to see, despite it being 20-25C for the majority of my stay in Paris, that people generally didn’t wear anything other than jeans, chinos or dress/suit pants. Upon asking a Parisian about it, I was told that shorts are generally regarded as an impolite form of dress that is not suitable for work or a meeting, and is generally only worn on vacation or by tourists. I was even told that it is almost taboo to show your legs, which I definitely found strange. It did make me self-conscious enough to wear jeans on a few occasions where I would have opted normally for shorts, but I quickly switched back after sweating it out unnecessarily. Fashion over comfort for the Parisians it seems!

  • Parisians can be as rude as you’ve heard: On many occasions, I was surprised by how rude people, even those paid to provide customer service, were to me. The metro and tourist attractions proved to be a hotspot for the short-fused, annoyed and exasperated worker, which encourage me to limit my interaction with them to a bare minimum as a defence mechanism. There were many kind people in the museums and other places I visited though so it's a bit of a mixed bag, but be prepared for some snark with your service.

  • Baguettes are the coffees of Paris: Seriously, people eat baguettes for breakfast, lunch and as a snack too. They are obsessed with bread, putting things in bread, eating things with bread – you get the picture. Bakeries are on every corner, fueling this never-ending lifestyle.

  • The French are a romantic people – I have never ever seen so much public affection before. People of both genders kissing each other on the cheek in greeting, couples canoodling and kissing in parks and on the street – Parisians are openly emotional and outspoken with their feelings. It can be off putting at first, but you learn to just embrace it and look away in time.

  • Parisians like their wide open spaces – It is a favourite past time of the French to lay in parks for hours over a picnic lunch. More food, more people-watching. You get the picture.

    Parisians enjoying the Jardin des Plantes (Botanical Gardens)
    Parisians enjoying the Jardin des Plantes (Botanical Gardens)

  • Paris is undeniably rich with culture and history – Another no brainer. The sheer volume of churches, monuments, museums and sculptures on display is a testament to the rich history of Paris. You even feel it walking down the street – the cobblestones and the street signs lend the city an old-fashioned, nostalgic and very romantic feeling.

    Arc de Triumph at the top of the Champs De'Lysees
    Arc de Triumph at the top of the Champs De'Lysees

  • Aside from people-watching, smoking is another favoured hobby: This is quite a sad inclusion on the list but it is so evident it is impossible to disregard it. Smoke is everywhere in Paris because so many people smoke. It is so easy to passive smoke in Paris every time you walk down the street, pass a bistro or walk through a park with what felt like 1 in 3 people – of all ages – smoking. It seems to be a cool thing to do in Parisian society, and what’s sadder, is that I even saw cyclists and people who were ostensibly healthy, lighting up with gusto. Smoking always makes me feel sick, and after visiting Paris, that feeling hasn’t changed.

  • Paris is expensive – You can’t be surprised by this. For me, coming from Australia, mostly everything is more expensive in Paris. Only a few things, like food from vending machines and baguettes (probably due to oversupply) are roughly in proportion with their Australian counterparts. There are cheaper places you can find to eat, but you get what you pay for. I did resort to doing some grocery shopping on my first day to soften the blow, which turned out to be a great way to save money as I managed to avoid paying for food except for 1 day of deliberate French sampling.
Traveler tips
  • Buy metro pass in advance – The metro is so good in Paris it’s ridiculous not to use it. With the Paris Visite metro pass, you can get 1,3 or 5 day unlimited travel on the Paris metro, bus and RER in selected zones (chosen at purchase) so you can have peace of mind. This is literally the first thing you should get in Paris if you are going to be going around the city a lot and it is great value if you take into account the price of individual tickets. There is the weekly pass (valid from Monday to Sunday, sold on the Thursday for the following week) and the Paris Navigo pass (needs a photo taken and is generally for Paris residents) available but they both have their drawbacks and aren’t always suitable for tourists.

  • Try to use service stations instead of ticket machines if you’re unsure – The ticket machines are actually very good and do have English options but if you are uncertain of anything or want to avoid being harassed by the occasional scam artist or shady character, ask for your tickets directly at the train station. Just be prepared for some staff to either not know English, be rude to you, or both.

  • Avoid beggars, gypsies, scammers, and con artists: Like any big city, Paris has its share of less-than-desirable characters. There are beggars (often Romanian) in the street next to ATMs, in train stations, performance artists on the trains playing for money (and some are actually not bad and deserve the coin they get), gypsies around the Eiffel Tower asking you if you speak English who try to get you to do a survey; people selling rip-off goods at big tourist locations; and others trying to sell souvenirs and water to tourists.

  • Take care of your belongings to protect against pickpockets – The metro, with its mass of people and limited space to move, is an ideal place for you to be robbed of your valuables at an unsuspecting moment. Take care of your belongings and make sure you don’t leave yourself vulnerable to being pick pocketed. I used a money bag around my waist under my clothes to be extra careful of my things, keeping my passport, wallet and room key inside. What do you know? I didn’t lose a thing. To put this into context, on the day I arrived, a friend’s friend had their passport stolen along with their money bag at a major train station. The passport was thrown into the trash, and the money bag emptied of all cash. I was also hassled at the train station by some shady characters right after I’d touched down in Paris.

  • Try to take the metro in off-peak times: 9-10am and 5-7pm are typically the busiest hours for the metro so if you can, try to avoid taking it at these times to save yourself unwanted touching, sweat and jostling. It gets quite warm in the metro with everyone sucking up the oxygen so try to stay cool and calm and you should be fine.

  • Get lost sometimes – Sometimes getting lost is the only way you can learn how to get around. There is a perverse satisfaction from getting lost and then having that ‘Eureka!’ moment when everything all clicks into place. The metro is well connected so you can always take the metro from wherever you do end up if you find yourself really lost.

  • Take your time with the metro – if you miss your train, there is another one usually within 2-5 minutes so unless you’re in an absolute hurry, there’s no need to dash unless you like running! I admit I did run around a little but only because I was trying to fit everything in and wasted time getting lost more than a few times.

  • Learn some basic French – French people, while sophisticated, do not always speak the best English and some, even at service outlets, speak no English at all! So do yourself a favour and bust out your phrasebooks to develop some basic competency. You will find your experience everywhere – in restaurants, in the metro, in shops – easier and all the more pleasant for it.

  • 18e/month unlimited movie subscription – Parisians love their cinema, and really respect the work of the director. After all, they did first conceive of the auteur, and play host to the world’s most prestigious film festival in Cannes every year. Small rather than large multiplexes are dotted around the city, playing independent, foreign language and auteur cinema to the masses. I nearly fell in love with Paris right then and there. It is a great place to catch up on the latest gem by your favourite unknown director. I found out too late that there is an 18 euro per month subscription that gives you the privilege of unlimited movies! Considering a single movie costs around 7 or 8 euros, this is great value.

  • Check out some free music concerts – Paris is a great place to get in touch with your musical self and with the many churches, cultural venues and parks on offer, there is almost a chance to hear some great music everywhere you go. The metro is also occasionally accompanied by budding artists trying to eke out a living impressing the daily commuters. Check out this website for a listing.

  • Ask for help if you need it, even if you feel uncomfortable (Or Learn How to Read Your Train Tickets) – Being in Paris made me uncomfortable asking for help as I didn’t know much French. Having never taken a high speed train before, I was a little unsure if I was in the right seat however upon finding my seat number on the wall, I was sure I had done the right thing. My complacency ended up costing me as I mistakenly got into the wrong part of the train (correct seat number, but wrong coach number) to Munich, finding myself temporarily stranded in Strasbourg and costing myself two hours. Luckily I was still able to make it to my destination with a simple transfer at no additional fare, but I had to find a Wi-Fi source to alert a friend who would have been waiting at the station for an extra two hours on top of getting the new train. All stress one does not need while traveling. I later found out the coach numbers are indicated on the outside of the train, but it just goes to show you, that it never pays to ask for help if you’re unsure.

  • Choose the ‘formule’ fixed menus for breakfast or lunch to save – In Paris, you can often find a ‘formule’ menu on offer which is a fixed price menu (either entrée + main + dessert, entrée + main or main + dessert) of set items that is often cheaper than ordering a la carte. I ordered one which would normally have costed 20 euros but was only charged 16 euros for it. So do your wallet a favour and go for the set menu, that is, if you don’t mind sacrificing some choice in the process.
Beef gazpachio with pomme frites (french fries), salad and dressing
Lunch formule (set meal of the day): Beef gazpachio with pomme frites (french fries), salad and dressing

Andy’s traveler rating - Paris

People: 3.5/5
Liveability: 4/5
Attractions & Culture: 5/5
Nature: 4.5/5
Cost of living: 3/5
Weather: 5/5
Public transport: 5/5

Overall: 30/35

Traveler truths: Helsinki

This is a new series I’m starting focusing on important insights derived from my travels. These are simple, useful tips and observations I’ve obtained on my travels in places where I've stayed a significant period of time (i.e. beyond 3 days and usually at least a week) that helped me, and will hopefully help you too. First up, Helsinki.
  1. Helsinki is a haven for nature lovers: The sheer abundance of lakes, forests, paths and parks make Helsinki a treasure trove for those who like the outdoors. No wonder Helsinki is called the ‘land of the thousand lakes’. The air is clean, the surroundings picturesesque and the views amazing. The people are proud of their green surroundings, and regularly venture out of the busy city centre to the neighbouring islands (e.g. Suomelinna, Rajasaari Island, Seurasaari) or take a ferry to nearby Talinn, Stockholm or Norway. The Nuuksio National Park, an hour from Helsinki, was one of the most breathtaking places I’ve visited and full of postcard-perfect views. You should join them, and be prepared to leave the city. It is definitely worth it.
The beautiful nature of Helsinki
The beautiful nature of Helsinki
  1. Helsinki is a walkable city: Although you can buy a public transport pass for the bus, metro, trams or train, Helsinki is easily navigable by walking if you want to keep your costs down. There is only one line on the metro, which suggested to me that public transport wasn’t exactly essential. I walked around Helsinki and to all of the many attractions on foot, and spent a good few hours each day walking. My legs got a workout, and I saved on public transport fares. Helsinki is just large enough so you don’t get bored in a week, and small enough for you to cover it on foot. Just allow plenty of time to reach and return from your destination (resting as needed) and you should be fine.
  1. Many of the museums are free: Helsinki has a network of seven large museums that always have free admission. What’s more, the Finnish National Museum is free on Fridays from 4-6pm.
Discoveries from the free City Museum of Helsinki
Discoveries from the free City Museum of Helsinki
  1. Cyclists are respected and well taken care of: Helsinki is an incredibly liveable city, and very hospitable to cyclists. Walking areas are divided into sections for pedestrians and cyclists, reducing the risk of collisions and providing cyclists an incentive to get on their bike. The fact that Helsinki is quite small as a city makes a bike a very handy and convenient option for getting around. Melbourne could definitely learn a thing or two to cater to its burgeoning cyclist community.

  2. The Finnish are a reserved people: In comparison to Melbourne or other areas of Australia where people will openly engage you in conversation without being prompted, in Helsinki people will pretty much leave you to your own devices unless you actively ask them. It's not a bad thing or anything, but if you need something, you really do need to make yourself known.
Andy’s traveler rating – Helsinki

People: 4.5/5
Liveability: 5/5
Attractions & Culture: 4/5
Nature: 5/5
Cost of living: 3/5
Weather: 3.5/5
Public transport: 4/5

Overall: 29/35

Helsinki: A Day of Two Islands

To round out my last day in Helsinki, I decided to tick off a few more of Helsinki's attractions - again a combination of man-made and natural. Ducking quickly into the Kamppi area near the city centre, I headed into the Kamppi Chapel of Silence (free admission) for some reflective thinking with a higher deity of some kind (I'm an Atheist). Next, I proceeded to the Temppeliaukio Church, more commonly known as the Rock Church (free admission) for its distinctive origins from rocks. It's very small so there's not much to see apart from a few photos.

The interior of the Rock Church
The interior of the Rock Church

After these detours, I was ready to move onto the main course of the day - the Seurasaari Island and it's traditional Finnish buildings of days gone by. However, after walking along the west coast of Helsinki, I came across the Rajasaari Island and couldn't resist a brief pitstop.

Attraction details:

Name: Rajasaari Island
Directions: A short walk along the Merikannontie Road, continuing along the west coast. I estimate it would take around 15-20 minutes walk to get to from the city centre. 
Admission fee: Free
Rating: 4/5 stars

A popular spot for dog walking, sunbathing and swimming, the Rajasaari Island is full of scenic views and beautiful flora (I spotted some roseberries) and fauna (swans, etc). I highly recommend it for a pure dose of Mother Nature away from the city.

Rajasaari Island
Rajasaari Island

Rajasaari Island
Rajasaari Island 2

Rajasaari Island
Rajasaari Island 3

After taking in the views, I proceeded further along the coast to the Seurasaari Island, which depicts what life was like in 1600s Finland through a series of preserved old buildings, churches, windmills, farms and the like.

Attraction details:
Name: Seurasaari Island
Directions: Continue walking along the west coast of Helsinki past the Foliosovagen Rajasaari Island and you will see signage pointing you to Seurasaari. Alternatively, the number 24 bus from the city centre goes directly to the Seurasaari Island as its last stop. The bus takes around 20 minutes all up.
Admission: Free (excluding entry to any open museums and restaurants/cafes)
Rating: 4.5/5 stars
Traveller tip: Take some food and have a picnic there to properly enjoy the views.

The next 2 hours was spent simply drinking in the history and atmosphere of the buildings and learning about Finnish history by reading the signs dotted around the attractions. Compared to the relatively commercialised Suomelinna Island on the opposite side of Helsinki, I found Seurasaari to be immensely peaceful, organic and beautiful. Tame hares and squirrels are regularly scene scampering around amidst the herb-rich forests, making for an interesting hybridised journey of history and nature.

Seurasaari Island 1
Seurasaari Island

Seurasaari Island 3
Seurasaari Island

Seurasaari Island 4
Seurasaari Island 3

Seurasaari Island 2
Seurasaari Island

Helsinki: Man vs Nature

On my sixth day in Helsinki, I visited a combination of 6 total man-made and natural attractions: the Kamppi Chapel of Silence, Finland National Opera Building, Helsinki Winter Garden, Olympic Stadium & Tower, Helsinki Central Park and the Hietaniemi Beach & Cemetery. I only explored the Winter Garden in depth so that's what I'll cover below. Despite the equal combination of man-made vs natural attractions of today's visit, it is becoming quickly apparent to me that Helsinki is a nature lover's city. It is called 'the land of the thousand lakes' after all, with lakes, parks and forests frequently dominating the landscape.

Attraction details:

Name: Helsinki Winter Garden
Directions: A short walk from the city along the Mannerheime Road.
Admission fee: Free
Rating: 3.5/5 stars

Founded in 1893, the Garden contains over 200 species of plants. A rose garden outside leads you into a conservatory of different themed rooms of plants, including palms and cactii. The plants are beautiful and obviously lovingly cared for, with many different species growing side by side. There is enough here to occupy you for around 2 hours. The location of the Garden is ideal, with the Olympic Stadium & Tower and the gigantic Helsinki Central Park within walking distance.

The Helsinki Winter Garden
The Helsinki Winter Garden



Eurasia Day 3: Nuuskio National Park

After yesterday's visit to the scenic Talinn and its centrepiece Old Town, Eurasia 2014 Day 3 represented a distinct change of pace. Away from the worries of civilisation, our destination was the Nuuksio National Park, a national park just thirty minutes by car out of Helsinki. Filled with dazzling views, pindrop silent forests, and challenging but learly-marked trails, its an essential destination for any traveller to Helsinki.

Attraction details:

NameNuuksio National ParkDate visited: 14 September 2014
Admission price: Free (Haltia Nature Centre admission is 7 euros, with buffet lunch for ~10 euros but I did not stop there)
Directions: Take the bus or train to Espoo, then the 85A bus to Nuuksio National Park (there are several stops at different entrance points to the park). The trip takes around 1 hour each way. For directions and a map, head to the Outdoors in Finland website. The regional bus ticket for 5 euros each way will cover your trip to Nuuksio National Park and back. Rating: 5/5 stars

The Nuuksio National Park is a welcome respite from the busy rhythms of city life in Helsinki. Containing few tourists, clearly marked paths for walkers of all skill levels, numerous BBQ spots for a picnic lunch (or marshmallow or two) and enough scenic views to fill a shop of postcards, Nuuksio is a top-notch example of the serenity and awe-inspiring power of Mother Nature. Personally, I took a trip with a friend for around 4 hours visiting a small section of the park with a brief break in between for lunch, but the park is immense and would easily occupy a full day if you're up for some serious trekking.



Just one of the gorgeous views within the Nuuksio National Park

In short: Visit Nuuksio National Park for a diversion away from the city centre, some jaw-dropping views and some quiet time alone with only the company of the odd walker and the thoughts of your own head.

Eurasia Day 2: Day trip to Talinn, Estonia

On the second day of my Eurasia 2014 trip, an expedition to Talinn, the capital city of Estonia. Aside from maintaining my perfect 1:1 ratio for days in Europe: new countries visited, I found Talinn to be a pleasingly modern and fast-paced city compared to its more relaxed cousin across the gulf in Helsinki. Just a fifteen minute walk to the harbour followed by a two hour ferry ride from the Helsinki mainland, Talinn proved to be well worth the wait.


The Tallink Ferry we took to Talinn (2 hour journey each way)

Attraction details:

NameTalinn Seaplane Harbour Museum / Talinn Old Town
Date visited: 13 September 2014
Admission price: 10 euros (includes entry to both the internal exhibition and the external ships) / free
Directions: From one of the harbours of Helsinki, take a ferry to the Talinn Harbour. The Talinn city centre and Old Town area is around 15 minutes walk. The Seaplane Harbour Museum is also a 15-20 minute walk from the Harbour, but in a north-west direction.
Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars / 5 out of 5 stars

 Deciding on the 7:30am ferry to Talinn was a little punishing to be sure, but it ensured me and my travel companion were well into Talinn by 9:30am. And what an experience it was! Traveling by ferry to a new country (a routine activity in Europe I'm told) on the Talink Ferry, I was surprised to find not a collection of seats on a deck, but a multi-level structure boasting a perfume store, a Super Alko store for purchasing alcohol (a favourite past time of the Finnish who regularly travel to Talinn for cheap booze before ferrying it back to the mainland) and a buffet restaurant for the passengers on board.

Instead of heading directly into the city, we ventured first to the Talinn Seaplane Harbour Museum, a maritime museum that opened in 2012 after being transformed from an airplane hanger building. Along the way we passed many visually appealing buildings that foreshadowed the colourful monuments dotting the Talinn Old Town of our afternoon.

In comparison to the Estonia Maritime Museum (which seems a little mainstream), the Seaplane Harbour Museum seems targeted towards maritime enthusiasts, with an internal exhibition containing numerous life-size examples of real submarines, articles of warfare, seaplanes and ships. In this part of the museum, you are able to walk through the numerous rooms of a seaship (including cabins, kitchen, engine room, steam room, bathroom, captain's room, etc) and a submarine. Interestingly, there is an interactive airplane simulation where you can pilot your own aircraft, a section for you to dress up in nautical clothing, and a model submarine for you to explore, putting you directly inside the mind of a nautical professional. External to the building, there is the gigantic submarine Lembit you can walk through. I walked out with a renewed appreciation of the difficulties of the nautical lifestyle.


The airplane hangar turned Seaplane Harbour Museum in Talinn 

At around 12pm, we headed into the Talinn city centre for lunch, and were rewarded with views of the Town Square and its myriad winding alleys, cobblestone streets, quirky shops and vibrant architecture that formed the 'Old Town' district. There is also  We stopped at a quaint restaurant named Porgu, which is situated in an underground cellar you need to walk down to reach. The relatively low prices, sparse crowds (we were the only people there for 30 minutes or so) and free WiFi were a great motivator for my culinary beginnings in Europe. My mustard and honey baked chicken fillet with mashed potatoes, pak choi, sun dried tomatoes, and creamy mushroom sauce (9.5 euros) was a delicious blend of hearty flavours, while my friend's smoky duck fillet, sweet potato mash, black plums, baked cherry tomatoes, sugar snap peas and pomegranate sauce looked positively drool worthy (washed down with a decilitre (100mL) of Hoegarrden beer).


Delicious cheap food in Porgu (honey mustard chicken)

After our brief pitstop for lunch, we continued through the Old Town streets, went inside one of the countless churches and browsed some of the surrounding shops before proceeding to the Upper Lookout spot over Talinn's Old Town. The view was simpy breathtaking! The day came to a close with market shopping and some very European people watching via a park and cafe detour for some chocolate cake and tea.


A highlight of the day was the Hare Krishna procession we saw enter the park just as we were leaving. They sing a semi-catchy song complete with drums, singing and dancing to the two repetitive words of 'Hare Krishna' - an interesting diversion to say the least. The 4:30pm ferry back to Helsinki deposited us back to the mainland around 6:30pm.


The picturesque views of Talinn Old Town from the Upper Lookout

In short: Visit Talinn for some cheap food, the UNESCO Heritage Listed Old Town and the breathtaking views. The ferry is around 18-40 euros depending on the time and date and ferry company chosen.